The Ko kimchi consommé is supposed to be an up-scale take on the bo ssäm, which I’ve yet to make, but if it tastes even a fraction as good as this dish, I’ll be happy. The Ko chapter talks a lot about the perfection of food. The word soigné is thrown around a fair bit, the food at Ko is supposed to be refined, polished and elegant.
Having been to Ko, I can see Chang’s obsessive compulsiveness with perfection reflected in the movements of the chefs. No a movement is wasted – the chefs are deft, fast and sure. I didn’t have a chance to have the kimchi consommé at Ko, but I wish I could have. The smokiness of the pressed pork belly, the sweetness of the napa, the refined spiciness of the kimchi consommé and the freshness of the oysters was fantastic. I can only imagine how incredible it would have been eating a Chang approved version.
Oyster shucking is one of the many techniques that I’ll take away from Momofuku. I love being able to shuck my own oysters. It’s completely satisfying and fresh. We bought kusshi oysters, which have a super-sweet, ultra-clean, sea-salty flavour that counter balanced the richness of the pork.
This dish takes a bit of time, but like most things that do, it was worth it.